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Rio Rondo Enterprises
PO Box 111-wb
Copeland, KS 67837
Fax: 620-668-5783
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Paso Stirrups PDF
(Approx 109k)

Rio Rondo's Paso Stirrups (items SP50 and SP51) are sold unfinished and require some added hand-work before they are suitable for use. This work, however is fairly simple and straight forward.

This is best be done using fine grit sandpaper (about 400 grit, wet or dry). Larger nibs or excess metal can be removed with an x-acto knife.

These areas include:
  • The entire section above the "rope" design edge on the top (including the rope edge portion)
  • The four corner tips
  • The flat center strip on the front side (the side opposite the one with the hole for the foot).

    Paso Stirrup This is quickly accomplished with a bristle brush on a Dremel or moto-tool. (DO NOT use a metal/wire brush tool!) Jeweler's rouge can be used sparingly, but only if needed. If polishing these areas by hand, simply use a chemicalized Sunshine polishing cloth (#HD20) or other metal polishing compound such as Flitz or Simichrome, and a soft cloth.

    Avoid polishing any OTHER areas of the stirrup. The other areas are to be painted brown to simulate wood, and the paint will stick best if those areas are not polished smooth.

  • Use gesso (black or white will work equally well) and paint in the areas that are NOT to remain silver and polished.
  • Apply two coats and allow each coat to thoroughly dry before applying the next. Do not forget to paint inside the stirrup itself as well as the bottom.
  • If you accidentally get a little paint on an area to remain shiny, simply scrape it off with a fingernail, or remove it with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab.
  • Make sure your paint is smooth and even. Heavy coats with as many brush strokes as possible smooth out will work nicely. (Use more coats than two if you prefer)

  • When the gesso is thoroughly dry, paint over these same areas with brown paint. A burnt- umber or dark brown color is best. (For accurate color matches, I advise seeking additional information on paso equipment to view and study photos of actual full-size items)
  • Paint as many coats as necessary to completely cover the gessoed areas. Make sure there are no streaks or thin spots.
  • Allow each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.
Be very careful as you work. It is very easy to mar or scratch your paint while you work so don't get in a hurry. The paint is more likely to be marred if it's not yet dry as you apply the next layer of paint, so its best to be patient and allow each layer to dry before proceeding.

When you have the dark brown "wood" color of the stirrup even and are satisfied with it, allow the paint to dry for a couple of hours. (Longer if the weather is humid).

When you are CERTAIN the paint is completely dry, I recommend applying two coats of Classmate Matte Polish (part #HD15)over the simulated wood-colored areas. This gives the "wood" colored areas a satiny, burnished look, and protects the paint from future marring. Allow the first coat to dry about an hour before applying the second coat. Allow the entire stirrup to dry at least another hour or two before attaching it to the stirrup leathers.
Alternatively, you can use Krylon Matte Spray Finish to help protect the surface.

Paint will stick to pewter if you are very careful not to rush the process and allow the paint to dry thoroughly. Applying the matte polish over the top will help seal it (but is only truly effective if the paint is totally dry) and making certain the polish is completely dry will ensure a long-lasting and beautiful stirrup.

Should you ever need to re-do your stirrup at a future time, simply soak the stirrup in nail-polish remover or acetone (please read all precautions on these materials) for an hour or two, then wearing latex gloves, use cotton swabs or kleenex to remove the paint etc., and work it out of any crevices. Wash the stirrup with soap and water, and allow it to air-dry thoroughly before repainting.
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